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𝗥𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗵 𝗥𝗶𝗱𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗧𝗿𝗮𝗻𝘀𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻𝘀 𝗔𝗿𝗲𝗻'𝘁 𝗜𝗺𝗽𝗼𝗿𝘁𝗮𝗻𝘁," 𝘀𝗮𝗶𝗱 𝗻𝗼 𝘄𝗶𝗻𝗻𝗲𝗿 𝗲𝘃𝗲𝗿...

𝐖𝐢𝐧𝐧𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐢𝐧 𝐑𝐚𝐧𝐜𝐡 𝐑𝐢𝐝𝐢𝐧𝐠: 𝐓𝐫𝐚𝐧𝐬𝐢𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐬

     💥Getting +1 1/2 Every Time

     💥Timing the Transition

     💥Riding the Transitions

     💥Teaching Transitions + Cueing

     💥Common Problems + Solutions


In the Ranch Riding, transitions are very important. Often, these maneuvers are what the majority of the score weighs on.


Written By Johnny Flores, AQHA Certified Professional Horseman


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Typically, the rider will be asked to perform a transition from any given gait to the next or transition between normal and extended gaits. Depending on the course, certain transitions can be used to create spread in the scorecard. Extended lope to extended trot is a prime example of this: a very difficult transition to do well and easy to get “break of gait” penalty points. Lope to walk is another example of a difficult transition judges strategically use to separate the good from the great. Transitions like walk to trot are usually quite easy to do, they hardly develop spread in the scorecard.

This does not mean they should be taken lightly, every point matters…but realistically this is not going to be the tie breaker for most runs.

𝗧𝗲𝗮𝗰𝗵𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗧𝗿𝗮𝗻𝘀𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻𝘀

The Finished Ideal

In a perfect world, the horse should have three cues to slowdown:

Body (pelivis, hips, and legs)

Vocal (both words and sounds like kisses or clucks)

Rein (the weight and signal of the rein, as well as the direct cues)

The horse should rate quickly and with discipline, but should not pucker his butt and cut ground to do so. There is a fine balance between the horse transitioning right away but doing so in a relaxed and realistic manner.

From a training perspective, the horse should be able to rate slowly and rate quickly depending on what the rider asks of him. This level of control will overtrain the transitions helping to more easily adapt to new surroundings, obstacles, etc. Its something trainers do more often than the non pros…

No horse was ever too broke.

𝗕𝗼𝗱𝘆

The ranch rider should always have their legs on the horse in some capacity. This is a safety blanket for the horse, and one that encourages forward motion. When the rider’s legs come off the horse, the horse should slow down. Whether that means a slide stop or a slow rate, the horse must quit working if the rider quits riding.

The degree in which they quit working depends upon their foundation training. Reining and Versatility horses usually stop faster than specialized ranch riders when the rider releases their legs. This is due to the robust stopping program developed for rundowns in the rein work (something the ranch riding and trail class do not, and will not have)

In the next section, there is a drill one could use to drastically improve downward transitions with their body.

𝗥𝗶𝗱𝗲 𝗮𝗻𝗱 𝗥𝗲𝗹𝗲𝗮𝘀𝗲

To perform this drill the rider will start in a reining circle at a lope. This exercise works after a bit of sweat, hot horses will not be keen to what the rider is trying to get done until they are warmed up thoroughly. From a reining circle, the rider will actively ride the horse. Not just sitting on them or light framing, the rider will actively frame up and use their spurs to get the back up. The rider wants to ball up the horse as much as realistically possible and have very active riding in both legs and reins. Once there, when the horse is soft and taking the pressure…the rider will quit riding.

For this, the rider will calmly release their legs, brace the saddle horn, and lean back with shoulders behind the hips. The rider will try to melt and sit on the end of their buttcrack in an exaggerated stopping position. In doing so, the horse should slow down or stop. If after a few seconds, nothing happens, the rider will perk up and resume riding that horse. There is no correction, this exercise works with suggestions and invitations. The rider will actively ride a bit longer and quit riding once more. If the horse rates down to a trot or walk, that's fine. The rider will perk up, continue that gait and pull the horse around before stopping and resting, or slowing down manually and changing the topic.

What many people try to do is correct the stop and pull the horse onto their hocks. That is not what this drill does. It's one that invites the horse to slow down when they want, and rewards whatever they’re willing to give. It's one that puts the ball in the horse’s court, instead of being greedy and transactional like most other cues riders utilize. If the horse slows down all the way or slightly, either will be rewarded. Because horses are naturally lazy creatures, they will soon learn that they can stop entirely and just hangout…without the need to slide on their hocks.

This exercise prioritizes downward transitions. Given that those tend to be the hardest to do with the body cue, this exercise is very helpful.

𝗘𝘃𝗼𝗹𝘂𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻

After using this drill a few times, the horse’s transitions start to look like the horse’s idea because of how calm they are. They seldom look rushed and the horse maintains a wonderfully pleasing aesthetic to their movement.

When showing, the rider will transition from a lope to a trot by lightly releasing their legs. It will be subtle, almost imperceptible. But that slight release of pressure from the rider’s legs and shifting on their buttcrack will invite the horse to slow down. Because this drill makes the horse WANT to slow down, the transition will be quick and seamless. Once at the trot, the rider will re-engage their legs to add support to their mount to KEEP that gait.

𝗘𝘅𝘁𝗿𝗮 𝗕𝗶𝘁

The next two cues are important but body cues should hold a special place in training. A keen ranch riding horse should be able to seamlessly perform without the need for rein or vocal cues, just body cues.

In a real ranch setting, hands get full, ropes get tangled, things get loud, etc. Rein and Vocal cues may not always work, nor should the horse be entirely reliant on them… especially once in a bridle.

The best horses wait and listen to their rider’s body.

The best riders cue with their body.

𝗩𝗼𝗰𝗮𝗹

All horses should know vocal cues, these are a secondary cue used to help create more discipline in the transition if the body cue fails. When using vocal cues, the rider should always be ready to follow them up with the rein cue, schooling, or overcorrecting.

Vocal cues tell the horse to do something, they do not invite them to do something. And due to their inability to correct on their own, a horse may slowly call the bluff.

A body cue can be corrected via spurs and a rein cue can be corrected via bridle…and vocal cue is reliant on these for discipline.

𝐓𝐞𝐚𝐜𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐕𝐨𝐜𝐚𝐥 𝐂𝐮𝐞𝐬

𝐃𝐨𝐰𝐧𝐰𝐚𝐫𝐝 𝐓𝐫𝐚𝐧𝐬𝐢𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐬

𝗜𝗻𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗮𝗹𝗹𝘆 𝗕𝘂𝗶𝗹𝗱𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗖𝗼𝗻𝗱𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻-𝗥𝗲𝘀𝗽𝗼𝗻𝘀𝗲

Ride and Release should be taught first and the horse should already understand downward transitions prior to this. To begin, the rider should release and allow the horse to slow down, in doing so the rider should state the gait they are targeting. If the rider is loping, he’ll relax and the horse will rate to a trot, during the process the rider should say “trot”. The same is true of transition down to a walk, say “walk”. Extended lope to collected lope should be a light hum or no vocal cue at all.

𝗜𝘀𝗼𝗹𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗖𝗼𝗻𝗱𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗥𝗲𝘀𝗽𝗼𝗻𝘀𝗲

Now that there is an association, the horse should be worked at vocal cues in an isolated manner where the rider’s body does not convey any cues.

From a trot the rider will say walk, if the horse slows down into a walk, the rider may lightly pull to help the walk. This correction is more of a pointer in the right direction, it's not hard on the horse. After a couple transitions with this in mind, the rider can start to overcorrect.

A good rule of thumb for overcorrections is to save them for when the horse has confidence and knows the exercise. Do not use it until the horse has been taught the exercise. From a trot to a walk, the rider will say “WALK” and give the horse one second, if there is no attempt made or try being felt, the rider will pull the horse to a stop and back a step before departing at a walk. This overcorrection works very well in a snaffle and curb bridle. For a hackamore, double the horse quickly into a fence and depart at the desired gait. If that horse gets hot, double him until he isn't. It should be less than 4 times total. This correction can be used for all downward transitions.

𝗧𝗿𝗮𝗻𝘀𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻𝘀 𝗨𝗽

Transitions up are quite easy for the average Ranch Riding horse. It is a simple condition-response, similar to Pavlov's dogs. The rider will say “trot” and tap their spurs once to urge the horse into the trot. If he overshoots into the lope, the rider will stop the horse without the courtesy of a vocal cue, say trot, and depart at the desired gait. From a trot to a lope, the rider should kiss once before tapping spurs.

In a bit, spurs work great for upward transitions. For a hackamore horse or a greener colt, a whip/quirt works wonderfully and prevents brace.

𝗦𝘁𝗿𝗶𝗸𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝘁𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗕𝗮𝗹𝗮𝗻𝗰𝗲

Finding the right amount of pressure to prevent overshooting and get the right gait each time can be tricky. If the horse overshoots once, make note…if he overshoots twice, maybe you’re too hard on those spurs. Soften up and see if it helps. Don't soften so much that you’ve got to kick two or three times to get an upward transition. The horse gets one cue before a reinforcement/reprimand. Sharp, consistent cues keep horses light and responsive.

𝗘𝘃𝗼𝗹𝘂𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻 𝗼𝗳 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗖𝘂𝗲𝘀

The rider should be able to cue the following:

“Walk” for the walk

“Trot” for the trot

*Cluck for extended trot

*kiss for lope

For the extended lope, additional clucking may work but usually perching does the trick just fine.

𝗘𝘅𝘁𝗿𝗮 𝗕𝗶𝘁

When practicing these cues, overtrain them. Body cues work well because of their kind, non rushed delivery…the horse is invited to slow down and (in a perfect world) takes it. But in the showpen, if he does not take that invitation, the rider is screwed. This is where vocal cues come in as the second line of defence. Because vocal cues do not have a built in escalation of pressure like spurs (for body cues) and pulling the bridle (for rein cues), it's important they are overtrained so that the horse remains disciplined in the showpen.

Always account for 20% of performance capacity being lost in the showpen.

Keeping this in mind, while my other cues are practiced at the same level as when I intend to show…I want my vocal cues to make the horse rush harder to slow down. In TRAINING, they may slide into their transitions when I isolate and work solely on vocal cues. This overtraining allows me to rely on body cues (in a perfect world) and vocal cues (as a RELIABLE backup) when I show.

And ideally will prevent me from having to use my reins so much, besides certain maneuvers or steering, of course.

Even though the transitions at home may be “too crisp” for the showpen, the 20% of performance that is lost in the showpen balances out and corrects this. It should yield a nice, balanced transition in the showpen that will not be too hard.

𝗥𝗲𝗶𝗻

The rein cues are interesting because they do not technically have both upward and downward transition cues…they only have downward transitions. The reason for this distinction is because training a horse to transition up via reins creates an association where loose reins means go forward. That's a dangerous game to play. A horse should not go forward simply because the reins are loose, they better keep the pace or be sharply corrected.

Rein cues are used as a last resort to polish up a transition or add a bit of crispness to it. They are, in a perfect world, not meant to be used all the time. Despite this, a horse should always know how to be pulled on and connect his hind feet to the rein. In the next section is a simple drill to help the horse be more keen to downward transitions.

𝗥𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗩𝗮𝗾𝘂𝗲𝗿𝗼 𝗦𝘁𝘆𝗹𝗲

The vaqueros had a style of riding heavy on doubling, especially doubling into a fence or barn wall. This was because their rawhide hackamores could not effectively fight the horse the same as most bridles in the modern age can. By using a fence to fight the horse, they were never in direct conflict with the animal and thus never made their horses very hard. This is something the modern showman can learn from the old viejos when training their show ponies. If it keeps them light…try it!

For this exercise, a 5-6 foot strong fence is ideal. The horse will need to be turned against it hard and a nylon fence or 4 ft fence may not be ideal.

To begin the rider will do a reining circle with some parts of the circle brushing up against the rail of the arena. In those areas that brush the arena wall, the rider’s leg should be about 3 feet from it. The rider will not change their seat nor will they utilize vocal cues for this, the rein cue must be isolated. At a trot, as the horse approaches the brushed area of the circle, the rider will slowly pick up their reins. From the beginning to the end of the pull (when contact is made), the rider should take 3 seconds, maybe even 4. At the end of the pull, when contact is made…the horse should be right near the arena. If he is not fully stopped (which he likely wont be), the rider should take one rein, turn him 180 into the fence and spur him forward. Then repeat.

This correction is one that tells the horse “hey, I told you to slowdown, now you get more work!”

Because horses are lazy by nature, it only takes a few times before the horse wants to slowdown. If he slows down significantly and stops, or just stops outright, the rider should release and sit quietly. Its important to note this exercise ends when the horse stops, not when he slows down (unless the horse is VERY green or VERY dense).

𝟮 𝗢𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗿 𝗩𝗮𝗿𝗶𝗮𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻𝘀

𝗞𝗶𝗰𝗸𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗕𝘂𝘁𝘁 𝗢𝘂𝘁

Once Contact is made, the rider can take hold of one rein and disengage the horse’s hindquarters before departing at the desired gait. This is an unpleasant surge of work for the horse, but some horses don’t seem to dislike it enough to modify their behavior. The important thing about reprimands/discipline/corrections/scolding is that they need to be unpleasant enough to motivate change.

𝗢𝘃𝗲𝗿𝗰𝗼𝗿𝗿𝗲𝗰𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻

The other correction one could use is when contact is made, they pull to a stop roughly and back a few feet before sitting quietly. This correction is tough on horses and best reserved for more seasoned horses who are making dumb mistakes. It does not fit the newbie 3 year old who’s trying their best…it's often too mean for their little feelings.

𝗘𝘃𝗼𝗹𝘂𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻

The finished horse should slow down not based on contact, but the feeling of the reins moving and the weight in their bridle shifting. This is the principle used in spade bits with rein chains and weighted romal reins used by the west coast Vaquero. It's also the principle in ⅝ split reins and heavy cast iron globe bits, common to the eastern Cowpuncher.

The finished horse should slow down when reins are picked up, not pulled. That level of attention on part of the horse is a wonderful edge to have in the showpen.

𝗣𝘂𝘁𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗧𝗼𝗴𝗲𝘁𝗵𝗲𝗿 𝗮 𝗚𝗼𝗼𝗱 𝗧𝗿𝗮𝗻𝘀𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻

There is no right answer, every horse needs a little bit more emphasis in certain regions. Its my observation that hotter horses need emphasis on body cues where the lazier horses need more attention on their rein cues. Smart horses who sour quickly tend to like their vocal cues.

Isolated practice will tell you where the holes are and what to patch up. From there, a video or trainer's eye can help to develop more style. Horse Training is a lot of experimentation…

𝗖𝗼𝗺𝗺𝗼𝗻 𝗣𝗿𝗼𝗯𝗹𝗲𝗺𝘀 + 𝗦𝗼𝗹𝘂𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻𝘀

Missed transition

Isolate each transition to diagnose the problem, then go in and fix it with the exercises mentioned. Find a trainer or friends to videotape and get another view of the problem. Sometimes a fish doesn’t know its wet, another pair of eyes or new perspective may help narrow down the issue.

Thrown Head

Horse Training is a series of failures, make note of the first time the horse does it and be ready the next time. Horsetrainers act as a safety net for the horse, but good horse trainers don't let the horse know they’re there unless absolutely necessary. In the next transition, put your hands low by your knees and allow the horse to run into the bridle. That works well. The other solution is to catch the horse’s head, pull them back, and backup while framed up. The final one is to be militant about collecting the horse and keeping them at the vertical. If their head raises, the bridle gets busy…and when the head goes down, the bridle rests. This works best in a snaffle or correctional. Training transitions with an emphasis on frame is important too. People forget to frame their horse during the transition and most importantly, after the transition.

Head Too Low

Same procedure as a thrown head, its still a cop-out for a frame the horse is refusing to adopt. Do keep in mind, it could be soreness related and proper vet/recovery care should be taken. Always check for pain in a horse’s issues, that way when it is ruled out, the little sucker has no excuse. Uncertainty is a pain.

Also note that with young or green ranch horses who drop their head too low after riding like a camel for a time…it's a good problem. It's closer to a good frame than a camel neck and head. At the end of the day, it's a problem and ought to be corrected…but it's not that bad of a problem to have early on.

𝗘𝗮𝗿𝗻𝗶𝗻𝗴 𝗖𝗿𝗲𝗱𝗶𝘁

𝗪𝗵𝗮𝘁 𝗲𝗮𝗿𝗻𝘀 𝗰𝗿𝗲𝗱𝗶𝘁 𝗳𝗼𝗿 𝘁𝗿𝗮𝗻𝘀𝗶𝘁𝗶𝗼𝗻𝘀?

- Even Frame THE WHOLE TIME

If someone were to photograph the whole run, the horse’s body should be in a similar frame in almost every shot. Consistent head position, hind engagement, and rounded back are all well liked.

- Discipline without Slide

If a lope to walk transition is done in one stride without any trotting inbetween and NO SLIDING, the rider will be credited. It's hard to transition right away while remaining relaxed and NOT sliding. That balance is hard to strike, but when struck…expect some credit.

- Synergy

The whole picture should be nice and pretty for the judge. In a perfect world, the horse’s transitions should match the rider’s body. If the rider is late, the transition looks too choppy and if the rider is too soon, the transition appears to lack discipline. Neither are good. Timing transitions takes practice. As a general rule, body cues need to be timed in a way where the rider waits for the delayed response from the horse while rein and vocal cues are near immediate. This is not a hard fast rule…get eyes on you to see what works best.

- Entering the Next Gait Strong

Sometimes people do a beautiful lope to walk transition and then their horse’s walk like they're iron deficient. The transition is important, but the departure from the transition should be seamless as well. Transitions should be final, lope to walk…that it. Not a lope to really slow walk that needs to speed up kinda but not really. Efficiency in the horse is always well liked.

𝐑𝐢𝐝𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐆𝐚𝐢𝐭𝐬

Now that transitions have been covered, its important to know how to actually ride each gait.

The Walk

At the walk, the rider should lightly swing their legs and bounce the fat of their calf against the horse’s side. It is very similar to people swinging their arms when walking. This lateral leg motion serves to support the stride at the walk.

When at the working walk, there should be a good stride with purpose and free flowing movement. Lazy horses need the rider's support to actually travel somewhere. Hot horses need it to slow down their stride and save some in the tank for extended walks.

Extended Walk

The rider’s legs should bounce faster against the horse’s sides and their hips should move more actively. Ideally, it will be like a thrusting motion in the direction of the saddle. This extra energy will serve to increase the speed of the walk. Trail and ground poles will help create the distinction between speed and extension in the extended walk. Be careful to not be so animated that the whole picture looks phony…let the cue match the response (unless schooling).

Trot

At the trot, the rider should sit on their butt and use their hips as shock absorbers to avoid bouncing around. Some riders use their hips/legs in a sideways motion diagonal to the horse’s stride in order to balance themselves. This is difficult and hard to teach so its best reserved for trainers.

Extended trot

Post or Perch, do not sit. It's an unwritten rule that posting or perching are what is done when the horse is extended trotting. Posting works wonderfully to support a horse’s trot, whether they need to be slowed or sped up. The English riders do this by posting off tempo to the horse and urging the horse to sync up with them.

Perching is used when the rider wants to get off the horse’s back and allow them to give it themselves. For nonpro riders this may be a better bet. Some judges view perching as unrealistic and tiring. Know your judge and what they want. Play to their preferences.

Lope

The lope should be cued with a slight haunches in before a verbal kiss to pull the trigger. The rider should sit on their butt and the horse should be rather engaged. The lope should not be fast, it should be realistic. When riding the lope, it's important to make it look pleasurable to the judge, keeping in mind these runs are an “interview” to work for the judge.

Extended Lope

The extended lope can be done from a seated position or from a perched position. Some people like to bring their rein hand forward for the horse. Keep in mind, perching and bringing the rein hand forward can create an illusion that the horse is going faster. Seasoned judges usually see through it, but that little trick works in smaller, local circuits.

A good rule of thumb is to use equitation as an aid if need be, nothing more. An extended lope should be obvious, it should not be reliant on the equation to sell it to the judge.

𝐋𝐚𝐬𝐭 𝐁𝐢𝐭 𝐨𝐟 𝐄𝐱𝐭𝐫𝐚 𝐀𝐝𝐯𝐢𝐜𝐞

From a lope to extended trot, rate to a trot first, then extend it. Do not rate to an extended trot or you’ll tranter (trot/canter)

Keep the cues subtle, not only are they more aesthetic, but rough cueing creates rough reactions.

Post on the correction diagonal (fall on the outside/fence side front foot). This will make upward transitions from trot to lope way more pretty and fluid. Judges who have all-around or English backgrounds will find it to look better (or maybe they will and use it as the final little thing that gets them from + ¼ to +½).

Time and place transitions strategically in the arena based on landmarks. Show off every gait, do not walk 4 strides and trot 10. Walk and trot 7, this way the judge actually has something to judge and doesn’t just give a 0 or -½. Judges are usually taught to judge positively and in favor of the rider, but when unsure…judges will usually go conservative in their scoring. Do not show a gait so briefly that the judge is unsure about giving credit.

Stirrup choice matters. Riding on your toes or balls of the feet looks great at the trot, extended trot, and walk. Riding with your whole foot in the stirrup looks good at the lope and extended lope. Find a stirrup that works and feels good for all of it. Oxbows and Roping stirrups are the main two that people like to work with. Also, consider how broke the horse is and what seat positions may be more or less defensive and “deeper” than others.

Transitions should be done in multiple fashions. In reining circles in an arena, they just get good solid practice and can be a place for training aids such as martingales or other tools. Outdoors on trail, the stride is opened as a consequence of ungroomed dirt and necessity for balance, which can help to emphasis extension. In random squiggly patterns the rider may find holes or hard spots where the horse doesn’t want to listen…they may also find a lack of attention to cues.

(for the broke horse) Create a situation in which the horse is not paying attention to you, or wants to run fast. Obstacles, cattle, multiple lead changes, or getting on cold backed work for this (use caution). Once the horse is trotting or loping and NOT considering you…LIGHTLY ask for a walk. When the horse almost certainly screws up, overcorrect him strongly before continuing. This works much in the same way a teacher asks the rowdy little boy in class to read from the textbook. He wasn't paying attention and felt stupid. Suddenly he started paying attention to class…

Closing Bits:

I wrote enough, I hope this article helps you thoroughly understand transitions and how they should work in your training program!

Thank You for Reading (if you made it this far!)

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