FAQs about the Hackamore What hackamore do I start with? Can I use a loping hackamore? What about a lariat hackamore? I know…a rope halter?
All such common questions about which size or ‘’severity’’ the hackamore needs to be for the horse. First I think something that should be established is the “severity” of hackamores. If they are placed correctly, in the middle between the eye and nostril, they work on hard bone. The problem is when they get put low and start to interact with sensitive cartilage. This hurts the horse and not only can damage cartilage, impair breathing, and lose signal…it will cause loads of mental tension reducing the horse’s natural ability to collect. Collection is not a vertical head or lifted back…what it is, is the engagement of the back and pelvis to transfer more than 50% of the horse’s weight to their hindquarters so they can maximize impulsion. Pain and mental tension cause physical tension in the spine and topline, reducing the horse’s ability to properly engage the correct muscles for collection. Back to the topic of bosals…
There are many types of bosals and “hackamores” on the market. Let me make it very clear I am referring to the Spanish California Jaquima(Ha-kee-ma). Jaquima is the word that “hackamore” is derived from. There are many other cowboy slang that are derived from spanish words like lasso being derived from lariat and lariat being derived from la reata. I say this only because many people have some sort of contraption with a bike chain and or wire that cranks the horse’s head shut and call it a hackamore. Sure, it works off the nose, that is not what constitutes a hackamore. Other people have some biothane sidepull, which personally I like, but nonetheless is not a hackamore. True hackamores are made with a leather, rawhide, or rope core and are usually braided with leather or rawhide. Some are made with rope, those are loping hackamores. So again, what should you use??? Well, short answer, it depends. Perhaps taking a look at how they work will better create an idea of what a horse may need.
Points to Remember The hackamore is not pain compliant Bigger is not always better
The hackamore is not a pain compliant tool, it works off of signal. We all know that. This is because a true hackamore has no leverage and functions with the rotation and pressure over the nose bone. Hackamores, if shaped well will sit more closely to the face of the horse and put light pressure on the nerves of the horse, this makes it very intuitive for the horse to move left if the hackamore puts pressure on the right side of the face. Some bosals have extra knots on their nose button. Those do not have a place in my training. If a horse is ever that rank that I need those, I ought to do more groundwork. The last part that the hackamore works off of is the bottom of the lips and chin. When at neutral the hackamore rests there. When you work the reins it leaves the lip…this is signal #1. Then the hackamore has a rotation on the nose button(signal #2) and pressure on either side of the face (signal #3) and will eventually rub and bump the chin groove. When the hackamore hits the bottom of the chin it is at its last signal. Our goal is to get the horse to listen and respond to all the pre signals of the hackamore before it hits the chin.
Because of how the hackamore works, some people figure using a ¾ inch or ⅝ inch bosal with a big swell and rawhide bars is the most “dummy proof” thing out there. This is not entirely wrong, the large bars provide more surface area to highlight which direction is being asked of the horse. What I have run into with these types of hackamores is that they tend to be made too stiff and have way too much “authority”. I don’t like overly stiff hackamores because, to me, they seem to provide too quick of a signal, and therefore none at all. Think about it, you touch the reins and it immediately rotates. Another thing, I don’t like having this hard block bouncing around on my horse’s face. To me, it seems to set me back. I want my horse’s light from the get go. START LIGHT STAY LIGHT. This is why ground work is paramount.
Up until around the mid 1900’s bosals were relatively soft. Yes, they still had ones that were for the rank horses, but generally speaking, they had less authority. Frankly I think the word alone is dangerous, why would you want authority over your horse? Hackamore riding is a conversation, the horse needs to feel me but I need to feel my horse too! That is the purpose of such balanced and precise equipment, it is a conversation…not an order. Having said all of this, I want a medium soft bosal with kangaroo leather. The reason is because I can feel my horse and where the hackamore is at any point in time, and he can feel me. The other reason is because I usually use lariats for the core and it allows for a very close fit with just the right amount of stiffness. From what I have observed with these hackamores, the bottom of the hackamore lifts just a hair before the nose button rotates. I figure this is a slower and thus easier to follow signal than those stiffer hackamores.
But once again…it all depends!!! If I had a young horse I knew wouldn't buck and did all my ground work and even let me on with the rope halter I wouldn’t hesitate to put on a half inch bosal. If I had a horse I thought might buck, I may still ride in that and have someone on the floor to drive the horse while I worry about hanging on. You could also just double bridle, but that extra man is always appreciated when the horse pulls the reins out of your hands.
So again, what kind of hackamore should you start in? In my opinion, I would try to get my horse light in the rope halter and then try a ½ inch hackamore. Start light, stay light.
If you'd like to order one of my custom bosals, PM me.
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